If you’ve ever stood at a boat ramp, watching a friend heave a 22-foot center console onto a trailer, their knuckles white as they crank a winch strap, you’ve probably wondered: could that ratchet tie down you use for moving lawn equipment or lumber work here? For years, the marine industry stuck to dedicated winch straps, cam buckles, and chain systems for boat trailering, but in my 12 years as a ratchet tie down supplier, I’ve fielded this question more times than I can count—from first-time boat owners loading a 14-foot aluminum fishing skiff to seasoned marinas prepping for hurricane season. The short answer is yes, ratchet tie downs can absolutely be used for securing boats—but only if you pick the right ones, use them correctly, and account for the unique demands of marine environments. Let’s break down why that works, where it makes perfect sense, where it falls short, and how to avoid the mistakes that turn a simple tie down into a safety hazard. Ratchet Tie Down
First, let’s talk about why ratchet tie downs are actually a better fit for many boat securement jobs than traditional marine straps. The biggest advantage is their load capacity and adjustability. A standard 2-inch ratchet tie down, for example, has a working load limit (WLL) of 3,333 pounds—most recreational boats under 25 feet weigh between 2,000 and 5,000 pounds, so two or four of those would cover the load with extra capacity to spare. Unlike cam buckles, which slip under tension if not cinched perfectly, ratchet tie downs create consistent, even tension across their entire length; that means less guesswork when you’re dealing with irregularly shaped hulls or trailers with uneven attachment points. I’ve seen customers use them for everything from small Jon boats to 28-foot pontoons, and the key that makes this work is matching the tie down to the boat’s weight and length, not just grabbing the cheapest option off a shelf.
But here’s the thing most people get wrong: ratchet tie downs aren’t one-size-fits-all for marine use. Regular ratchet straps (the kind you’d buy to move a couch or a stack of firewood) use polyester webbing that’s fine for dry, indoor use, but it doesn’t hold up to saltwater, UV rays, and temperature swings the way marine-specific products do. Last year, a customer came to me with a problem: he’d used a pair of $10 generic ratchet straps to haul his 18-foot fishing boat 200 miles down the coast, and halfway there, one strap snapped. He was lucky—he’d been going 55 mph, and the boat drifted just enough that he was able to pull over safely. When I looked at the broken strap, the webbing was frayed along the edges, and the ratchet mechanism was corroded from being exposed to salt spray and humidity during loading and unloading at the ramp. That’s why, when you’re using ratchet tie downs for boats, you need to look for ones labeled “marine-grade” or “corrosion-resistant,” not just generic heavy-duty straps.
Marine-grade ratchet tie downs differ from standard ones in two key ways: the webbing and the hardware. Most high-quality marine ratchet straps use webbing treated with UV inhibitors and a coating that repels saltwater, so it won’t degrade when left exposed to the elements for hours (or days, if you’re storing your boat on a trailer for the winter). The hardware—ratchet mechanisms, hooks, and adjusters—is usually made of galvanized steel or stainless steel, which resists rust far better than the plain steel hardware on cheap generic straps. I stock three lines of marine-rated ratchet tie downs at my shop, and we’ve tested them against saltwater spray, 100+ mph winds, and freezing temperatures to make sure they hold up—something regular straps just aren’t designed for.
Now, let’s get into the practical uses where ratchet tie downs shine for boat securement. The most common job is trailering boats for recreation—whether you’re heading to a lake for the weekend or driving across the state to a new marina. For small to mid-sized boats (under 25 feet, 5,000 pounds or less), ratchet tie downs work perfectly when paired with your trailer’s existing winch. The standard approach is to use two ratchet straps, attached to the boat’s reinforced lifting points (never the bow eye or the gunwales, which are thin and can crack under tension) and anchored to the trailer’s frame or side rails, one on each side of the boat. This is more stable than using just the winch strap alone because it prevents side-to-side sway, which is one of the top causes of trailer accidents on the highway. I’ve recommended this method to hundreds of boat owners, and we rarely hear about sway or straps coming loose—if you do it right.
Another area where ratchet tie downs excel is long-term storage and emergency securement. If you’re keeping your boat on a trailer for the off-season, or in an area prone to hurricanes, high winds, or floods, ratchet tie downs add an extra layer of security beyond the basic winch. When I worked with a marina in Florida a few years ago, they used heavy-duty marine ratchet straps to secure 30+ boats during hurricane season, tying each boat to fixed anchor points on the dock and the ground, not just their trailers. The ratchet’s ability to apply consistent tension meant the boats wouldn’t shift or lift even during 120 mph winds, which is a huge benefit over more flexible cam buckles that can stretch over time and lose tension. Even for smaller jobs, like securing a dinghy to the swim platform of a larger boat, ratchet tie downs are lightweight and easy to adjust, making them a go-to for many recreational sailors.
But before you run out and buy a dozen ratchet straps, there are critical limitations you need to know about. First, ratchet tie downs are not designed for permanent mooring—meaning they shouldn’t be used to keep a boat tied to a dock in open water for long periods. The constant pull of waves, tides, and current will stretch the webbing over time, and the UV exposure will break it down faster than if it’s stored out of water. Second, they’re not suitable for very large boats—over 30 feet or 10,000 pounds—where dedicated marine winch systems or heavy-duty chain rigs are a better bet. I’ve seen customers try to use two small ratchet straps on a 35-foot cabin cruiser, and they ended up snapping because the load was way beyond the strap’s WLL. Always check the working load limit of your ratchet tie down, and make sure the total WLL of all straps used is at least 1.5 times the weight of your boat—this is a safety standard that many new boat owners miss.
Another common mistake people make is using too few straps, or attaching them to the wrong parts of the boat. Gunwales, railings, and the thin bow eye of a small skiff are not designed to take the full tension of a ratchet strap—they can crack, bend, or pull right out, leading to the boat shifting or falling off the trailer. The right attachment points are reinforced lifting eyes, transom pads, or the trailer’s own D-rings, which are built to handle the load. I always tell customers to check their boat’s owner manual for recommended securement points before tying anything down, and if they don’t have a manual, look for metal loops that are riveted or bolted to the hull (not just glued on, which is common on plastic boats).
So, if you’re sold on using ratchet tie downs for your boat, what’s the right way to do it? Let’s walk through a step-by-step guide I’ve developed over the years, one that’s worked for thousands of my customers. First, calculate your boat’s total weight—don’t guess, use its dry weight from the manufacturer, and add 10% for gear, fuel, and passengers. Then, pick marine-grade ratchet tie downs with a combined WLL that’s at least 1.5 times that total weight. For a 18-foot, 3,000-pound fishing boat, that means two 2-inch ratchet straps with a WLL of 5,000 pounds each, or four 1-inch straps with a combined WLL of 4,500 pounds—just to be safe.
Next, prepare the boat and trailer. Make sure the boat is centered on the trailer, with the trailer’s bow stop pressed against the transom of the boat to prevent forward movement. Attach the straps to the boat’s reinforced points, running them at a 45-degree angle down to the trailer’s side rails or frame—this angle creates the most tension and prevents side-to-side sway. Never run the straps straight up and down, as that can put too much pressure on the boat’s hull and cause it to deform. Once the straps are attached, cinch the ratchet tight, but don’t overdo it—over-tightening can also damage the hull, especially on fiberglass or plastic boats. A good rule of thumb is that you shouldn’t be able to twist the webbing more than 90 degrees with your hand once the strap is cinched.
Finally, inspect your straps every time you use them. Look for frayed webbing, broken threads, corrosion on the hooks or ratchet mechanism, or any signs of stretching. Even a small fray can lead to a snap at highway speeds, so it’s worth replacing a strap if it shows any wear. Marine straps should be replaced every 3 to 5 years, even if they look fine, because UV and saltwater exposure will break down the webbing over time, even if you don’t use them often.
As someone who’s spent the last decade supplying ratchet tie downs to boat owners, marina operators, and recreational enthusiasts, I can tell you that this is one of the most common questions I get—and it’s one with a clear, practical answer, as long as you do your homework. Ratchet tie downs aren’t just for moving furniture or lumber; they’re a versatile, reliable tool for securing boats, as long as you pick the right marine-grade products, match their capacity to your boat’s weight, and use them correctly. There’s no need to invest in expensive dedicated marine straps if you’re just hauling a small fishing boat to the lake for a weekend, but skimping on quality or installation is a surefire way to end up with a dangerous situation.
If you’re not sure which ratchet tie downs are right for your boat, or if you need help calculating the right capacity for your haul, our team is here to help. We stock a full range of marine-grade ratchet tie downs in multiple sizes and weight ratings, all tested for saltwater resistance and durability, and we can guide you through the best setup for your specific boat and trailer. Reach out to our team to discuss your securement needs, and we’ll help you find the right solution for your next trip to the ramp or hurricane season preparation.
Ratchet Tie Down References:
- American Boat and Yacht Council (ABYC). (2021). Standard H26: Boat Trailering and Transport. ABYC International.
- Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA). (2022). Guide to Load Securement for Highway Transportation. U.S. Department of Labor.
- International Marine Contractors Association (IMCA). (2020). Marine Securement and Transport Best Practices. IMCA.
- Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE). (2019). J2198: Performance Requirements for Recreational Boat Trailering Systems. SAE International.
- National Marine Manufacturers Association (NMMA). (2021). Recreational Boat Trailer Securement Guidelines. NMMA.
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